Wood graining and faux finishes

Overview

Graining imitates wood grain on non-wood or a lesser wood. Wikipedia describes coarse (rustic) and fine (polite) types, with tools including mottlers, fan brushes, floggers, softening brushes and combs. Today's method is usually a latex base coat in gold, orange or tan, then glaze layers. Wood Magazine notes that gel stain is also used for graining on steel and fibreglass doors.

Pros

• Gives a wood look on steel, fibreglass or MDF.
• Matches a nearby real wood.
• Traditional skill with a lot of range.

Cons

• Hard to do convincingly; takes practice.
• Sources checked do not give durability data.
• Only worthwhile where real wood is impractical.

Suitability

Plain softwood, MDF, plywood or non-wood doors. Not needed for real hardwood, where Water-soluble dye stain or Gel stain is easier.

Coats and application

1. Base coat: latex in gold, orange or tan (Wikipedia).
2. Traditional fine graining: a watercolour layer (beer, Vandyke crystals) finished with an oil glaze of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wet layer is flogged, sponged or ragged, figured, then softened (Wikipedia).
3. Comb for straight grain; use fan brushes for fine detail.
4. Seal with a clear coat.

Compatibility

Ground coat: Latex and acrylic enamel paint. Glaze layers: Glaze and antiquing glaze. Gel stain works over doors per Wood Magazine (Gel stain).

Care and repair

Touch up the glaze layer and reseal. Protect with the clear coat.

Safety and environment

Oil glazes and mineral spirits are flammable; follow the label. Rags can combust.

Related

• Glaze and antiquing glaze
• Distressing and antiquing
• Gel stain