CAB-acrylic lacquer

Overview

Lacquer made from cellulose acetate butyrate (CAB) and acrylic resin instead of nitrocellulose. Wikipedia lists CAB and acrylic among the synthetic polymers dissolved in lacquer thinner to make modern lacquer. Mohawk's version is sold as a water-clear, non-yellowing topcoat for professional spray use, and this entry is based mostly on that single manufacturer's data.

Pros

• Mohawk says it is non-yellowing and good over light stains and pigmented lacquers (manufacturer claim).
• No recoat window and no pot life on Mohawk's page, since there is no catalyst to add.
• Long shelf life: 36 months on Mohawk's data sheet.
• Low-VOC formulation: 274.20 g/L coating VOC for the 275 VOC product.
• Mohawk says it passes KCMA (manufacturer claim).

Cons

• Solvent-borne and very flammable (flash point -4 F; the SDS lists acetone at 30 to 60%).
• Only 16.35% solids by volume, so several thin coats.
• Plain (uncatalyzed) lacquer; for harder, more chemical-resistant films see Pre-catalyzed and post-catalyzed lacquer and Conversion varnish.
• Spray finish: you need a gun, booth and respirator.

Suitability

Chosen for pale woods and painted or lightly stained work where yellowing matters: Soft maple, Hard maple, Eastern white pine, and white pigmented lacquers. Interior only. Mohawk says it passes KCMA tests, the kitchen-cabinet standard (maker claim). Not for tabletops that see heat, alcohol or standing water.

Coats and application

Sand to 220 grit, seal as needed, then spray (Spraying with HVLP) two or three coats. Mohawk's data sheet: 320 stearated paper for sanding, flash dry before applying heat with a 120 F maximum, touch dry in 10 minutes, handle in 20, recoat in 30 to 45 minutes, total system not over 4 dry mils. Example: one coat, 320 scuff, second coat 40 minutes later, rub out after it has hardened (Rubbing out a finish).

Compatibility

• Sold for use over light stains and pigmented lacquers (Mohawk).
• For sealers and shellac under it, follow Mohawk's data sheet; see Dewaxed shellac and Sanding sealer (and vinyl sealer).
• Do not put over a cured polyurethane film without a test coat (Nitrocellulose lacquer notes Minwax's warning).
• Separate from waterborne systems (Water-based lacquer).

Care and repair

Clean with a damp cloth. Wikipedia says lacquer finishes can be polished as required, so scuffs can be rubbed out (Rubbing out a finish). For damage, consult Mohawk's data sheet or sand and respray; test any stripper on scrap.

Safety and environment

Highly flammable; use a NIOSH-approved respirator and ventilation. No food-contact claim is made here. The federal limit for lacquers is 680 g/L (40 CFR 59 Subpart D); the Mohawk product states a lower figure.

Related

• Nitrocellulose lacquer: the traditional lacquer
• Pre-catalyzed and post-catalyzed lacquer: harder lacquer with catalyst
• Water-based lacquer: waterborne option for clear finishes
• Spraying with HVLP