Linseed oil paint

Overview

Linseed oil paint is pigment ground in boiled linseed oil. Allbäck, a Swedish maker, says linseed paint has been used in Sweden since the 1500s and was the standard choice both outdoors and indoors until the 1960s; its own paint is made from Swedish boiled, de-slimed, filtered and sterilised linseed oil. It cures by oxidation like other drying oils (Boiled and raw linseed oil), forming a flexible film that weathers by chalking rather than flaking. It is traditional on timber houses, windows, joinery and furniture.

Pros

• Can be repainted many times; Allbäck says repainting after perhaps 10 to 15 years may need no scraping (maker claim).
• Easy upkeep: the maker says to maintain with boiled linseed oil or linseed wax once the paint dulls.
• Suits most sound, clean, dry surfaces, including wood, metal and old paint (maker).
• Weathers by fading and chalking, which the maker presents as a sign it needs refreshing rather than stripping.
• The maker says its paint is emission tested with good results and made from natural ingredients.

Cons

• Slow drying, slower in cold weather (Allbäck).
• Too thick or uneven a film wrinkles; the maker calls this raisin skin and says it can be wet-sanded away.
• Needs help on hard-wear surfaces: the maker recommends adding zinc for floors, furniture and kitchen doors to get a harder, denser film.
• Rags and brushes with linseed oil can ignite spontaneously (see Safety).

Suitability

Good on old windows, cladding, doors and furniture in Scots pine and European oak and other joinery. Allbäck says to clean floors, preferably with linseed soap, before painting; a lye-treated floor must be neutralised with acetic acid and water first. For modern fast-turnaround jobs consider Oil-based enamel paint or Latex and acrylic enamel paint.

Coats and application

Allbäck says to apply plenty of paint and spread it out to an even thin film, because a thick or uneven film forms raisin skin. Cold slows drying. For outdoors, add 10 to 20 percent of its zinc linseed paint for resistance to dirt, pollen and algae; for hard-wear indoor surfaces it advises zinc as well for a harder, denser film. The maker also describes an emulsion version (about 30 percent water whisked in) for plaster; that is not a wood method. Thin with boiled linseed oil if needed.

Compatibility

The maker says it can be applied to most whole, clean, dry surfaces, including wood, sheet metal, iron, PVC and old paint. Behaviour over latex or other modern coatings is not covered by the sources opened here; test a patch.

Care and repair

Allbäck says the paint dulls and then chalks with age, more quickly in coastal environments and on south-facing walls. Refresh with boiled linseed oil or linseed wax, then repaint when needed. Chalky surfaces should be cleaned before repainting.

Safety and environment

Brushes, rags and sanding waste wet with linseed oil can heat and ignite spontaneously. The USDA Wood Handbook advises immersing oily rags in water and sealing them in a water-filled airtight metal container; Allbäck's guidance is to soak rags in water. See Oily rag safety. Check the maker's SDS for pigment content.

Related

• Boiled and raw linseed oil: the binder.
• Oil-based enamel paint: modern oil paint.
• Milk paint: another traditional paint.
• Outdoor finishing: exterior systems.
• Soap finish and lye (Scandinavian): Scandinavian floor tradition.