Teak oil

Overview

Teak oil is a name, not a plant product. Wikipedia describes it as a marketing term for oil-based finishes, usually linseed-based, and says it does not contain oil from the teak tree. Typical cans hold a drying oil with some varnish resin, solvent and, in some brands, UV absorbers. It is sold for Teak and other dense tropical timbers, especially garden furniture, giving a warm golden tint and a low sheen. It is a maintenance finish: expect to re-oil.

Pros

• Easy wipe-on, brush-on or (some brands) spray-on application.
• Brings colour back to dense tropical woods and weathered furniture.
• Maker data (Watco) claims UV and moisture resistance and use on boats above the waterline; Liberon gives a firm schedule and says its product suits external timbers (not external oak).
• Spot repair is simple.

Cons

• Thin and short-lived outdoors. The USDA Wood Handbook says drying oils like linseed and tung are appropriate for indoor use and perform poorly outdoors because they feed mildew; Liberon says surfaces need re-oiling once a year or more.
• Mildew and greying can still appear on outdoor furniture.
• Low heat and chemical resistance.
• The name hides what is in the can; ingredients vary widely.
• Oil finishes soil more easily than film finishes (Wood Handbook).

Suitability

Aimed at Teak, East Indian rosewood, Burmese padauk and similar dense timbers. Some tropical woods have extractives that slow cure of oil finishes (Wikipedia mentions rosewood, cocobolo and padauk and certain coatings), so test on a scrap and wipe with solvent first. Liberon states its teak oil is not suitable for external oak and recommends pure tung oil for that; a durable alternative outdoors is Outdoor finishing. Indoors it works on most hardwoods but offers little reason to prefer it to Danish oil.

Coats and application

Prepare bare wood: remove wax with a suitable remover and any varnish with stripper, then clean and dust off (Sanding schedule). Liberon's directions: apply by brush or lint-free cotton cloth, let it penetrate up to 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, leave 24 hours between coats, apply at least 3 coats on internal and external timbers, rub between coats with 0000 steel wool or fine abrasive (use abrasive paper on outdoor furniture), and let the last coat fully harden before use. Failure to wipe off the excess leaves a sticky surface; wipe with white spirit to remove it. Watco says its product can be wiped, brushed or sprayed on and wiped off.

Compatibility

Apply to bare wood or over a compatible stain (Oil-based pigment stain). Do not apply over a film finish. It will take paste wax (Paste wax) after curing. Do not mix products from different brands without testing.

Care and repair

Wash with mild soap, rinse, dry, and re-oil as the surface dulls; many outdoor owners do this once or twice a year. Remove mildew first, then re-oil. Liberon says to clean with a damp cloth and use mild detergent for stubborn stains. Light sanding removes ring marks.

Safety and environment

Teak oil contains drying oil, and rags or paper towels soaked in it can ignite spontaneously as the oil oxidizes. The USDA Wood Handbook says to immerse such materials in water and seal them in a water-filled airtight metal container; Liberon's label says to wet soiled textiles with water and dispose of them in a tightly closed container. See Oily rag safety.

Solvents are flammable; use in a ventilated place and wear gloves. The cited maker pages make no food-contact claim, and neither does this entry; for boards and bowls see Food-safe finishes.

Related

• Danish oil: close sibling product.
• Tung oil: pure oil, often recommended for exterior.
• Spar varnish: a film for outdoor wood.
• Outdoor finishing: broader guidance.
• Oily rag safety: fire hazard.