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Push-to-open latch

A spring-loaded or magnetic plunger that pops a door or drawer open when you press its face; lets a front go without any handle, pull or finger groove.

  • Catch
  • Concealed
  • Moderate to fit
  • Cost $$$$$
  • Indoor
  • High wear

Overview

A push-to-open (touch) latch has a plunger and a spring or magnet. Pressing the door or drawer front near the latch compresses the spring, releasing a catch so the front pops out a few millimetres; a gentle pull then opens it. Pressing it shut re-engages the catch. It suits handle-less fronts, where the style depends on an unbroken face. Wikipedia's latch entry covers the general idea of a fastener that joins surfaces and allows separation.

Types and sizes

  • Mechanical (spring plunger and ratchet) holds the door shut positively.
  • Magnetic push-to-open adds a magnet to hold the door and a spring to eject it.
  • For doors, drawers and flaps; the drawer type has a rail and catch in the cabinet.
  • Surface-mounted bodies in plastic or die-cast zinc, about 40 x 20 mm (1-1/2 x 3/4 in).
  • Travel about 6 to 10 mm (1/4 to 3/8 in) (typical, check the maker's sheet).

Where it is used

Contemporary and Japandi casework with flush, handle-less doors and drawers: the style guide describes fronts opened by a finger-pull bevel, a routed groove or a push latch. Not used in historic styles.

Choosing and sizing

Use one latch for a door up to about 500 mm (20 in) high, more for taller ones. Check the spring force against the door weight: a heavy door pushes back and the latch fails to hold. Think about hinges that allow the door to move out by the required travel (a concealed hinge with no stop is usual).

Installation

  1. Leave a reveal between the front and the carcass of at least 3 mm (1/8 in), more if the maker says so.
  2. Fix the latch body to the inside of the carcass, at the opening edge, with the plunger aligned with the door's catch plate.
  3. Fix the catch plate to the back of the door at the matching position.
  4. Adjust the plunger so the door sits flush when closed.
  5. Test: press near the latch, the door should pop out and close with a light push.

Wood movement and species

A solid-wood door that swells or cups will bind on the plunger; use a stable plywood or MDF door (Baltic birch plywood, MDF (medium-density fibreboard)) or a framed door. Leave 2 mm (1/16 in) of tolerance between latch and plate so seasonal change does not stop it working.

Common mistakes

  • Door has no reveal: the latch has nowhere to push it. Plan the gap.
  • Latch too close to the hinge edge: the door tilts on release. Place it near the opening edge.
  • Spring too strong: the door pops open on its own or the front bends.

Styles it suits

Suitable for

Fixes into: sheet, engineered, hardwood.

Sources

Updated 2026-10-03. Sizes and ratings are typical trade figures drawn from the sources above. A load rating is the maker's rating for one product, not a property of the type: check the maker's own sheet, and test a fit on scrap before cutting good wood.

Settings

Region

A region picks sensible defaults; change any of these separately.

Units

In inches, type lengths the way you say them: 34 1/2, 3/4", 1'-2" or 12.7mm. A length that can't be read is flagged, never rounded to something else.

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