Finishing schedules by species

Overview

The same finish behaves differently on different woods because of three things: pore size, how evenly the wood takes stain, and how the clear coat changes its colour. This entry condenses Kevin Southwick's finishing chart for 11 common woods (Popular Woodworking, 2022) and adds sourced notes for pine, oily woods and plywood. Southwick says his notes are his own professional observations and that any species varies, so test on offcuts.

When to use

• Before writing a schedule for a particular species.
• When a standard schedule gave blotches, rough pores or a washed-out colour.
• For the full process steps, see Sanding schedule, Grain filler (pore filler), Pre-stain conditioner and washcoat.

Materials and tools

Per species: grain filler for large or medium open pores; pre-stain conditioner or dye for blotch-prone woods; dewaxed shellac as a seal coat; a sanding block; acetone, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol for oily woods.

Steps

1. Find the species below, sand to its stopping grit (Southwick's minimum for a clear varnish; stain shows scratches, so go finer if you will stain), and apply the extra step listed.
2. Choose the clear coat knowing its colour effect: oil-based adds amber; water-based adds little colour, which keeps light woods light but can leave dark woods pale (Southwick).

Species	Pores	Stop sanding	Stain	Note
Hard maple	very small	180	mediocre, blotches	oil adds golden tone; water-based stays light
Black cherry	small	180	mediocre, blotches	oil darkens and enriches; water-based pale
Black walnut	medium	150	excellent	fill for glass-smooth; oil enriches
White oak	large, earlywood	120	good, hard to make dark	fill for glass-smooth
Red oak	very large	120	good, hard to make dark	fill for glass-smooth
White ash	large, earlywood	120	good, hard to make dark	fill for glass-smooth; strong stain contrast
Honduran mahogany	medium	150	excellent	fill for glass-smooth; density varies
Yellow poplar	small	150	mediocre, blotches	heartwood washed out under water-based
Sweet and paper birch (white birch)	small	150	mediocre, blotches	specks when stained
Eastern white pine	none	150	mediocre, blotches	earlywood far more absorbent

3. Pine (Popular Woodworking, Tim Johnson): stain gives blotches and "grain reversal". Seal with a water-based conditioner, colour with water-soluble dye, add dewaxed shellac and an oil glaze. Sand with a block (finger pressure wears the soft earlywood) and stabilise loose knots with epoxy. See Finishing resinous and blotchy woods.
4. Teak and other oily woods (Target Coatings; Woodwhisperer article, a coatings maker's advice): oils can keep oil finishes tacky and make water-based coats blush. The traditional route is to wipe the wood with acetone, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol, seal with 1 to 2 lb dewaxed shellac, sand lightly and top-coat. The same sources promote their own sealers; treat that as manufacturer advice. See Degreasing oily woods and Teak.
5. Plywood (Popular Woodworking, Southwick, cabinet interiors): sand to 100 grit, roll on a 2 lb dewaxed shellac (Zinsser SealCoat), let it dry 15-20 minutes, sand with 320, then one thick coat of waterborne floor finish. See Finishing sheet goods (plywood, MDF, MDO), Cabinet-grade hardwood plywood and Baltic birch plywood.

Common problems

• Blotching on maple, cherry, birch, poplar, pine. Cause: uneven absorption. Fix: conditioner minimises it but makes the wood hard to stain dark without a multi-step process (Southwick); for dark colour on woods hard to stain dark, Southwick suggests multiple coats of pigment stain or a dark dye first. See Troubleshooting finish defects.
• Rough pores on oak, ash, walnut, mahogany. Cause: open pores read as crevices under clear coats. Fix: fill (Grain filler (pore filler)).
• Dark specks on maple or cherry after staining. Cause: tiny pores take pigment. Fix: test on offcuts first; Southwick lists dark specks as a known result on these woods.
• Tacky oil finish on teak. Cause: wood oils. Fix: wipe and seal as in step 4.

Safety and environment

Acetone, lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol are flammable; ventilate and keep away from ignition. The Woodwhisperer article notes oily-wood dust and chemicals carry their own hazards; see Oily rag safety for rag handling. Always test on a scrap of the same board.

Related

• Tabletop finish schedules: three complete schedules.
• Wood moisture and acclimation before finishing: before any schedule.
• Dewaxed shellac, Water-based polyurethane, Oil-based polyurethane: the clear coats named above.
• Curing conditions and time-to-use: wait times.